The fashion world is no stranger to bold beauty statements, but Doja Cat's appearance at Schiaparelli's Spring-Summer 2023 haute couture show on January 23 in Paris left everyone speechless. While Kylie Jenner's lion-head dress grabbed headlines, it was the 27-year-old rapper and singer who stole the show with her jaw-dropping makeup: a fiery red look embellished with thousands of shimmering crystals. Behind this masterpiece was legendary makeup artist Pat McGrath, who transformed Doja Cat into a living embodiment of Dante's Inferno, the theme chosen by Schiaparelli's creative director Daniel Roseberry.

The Red Crystal Look: A Technical Marvel

Pat McGrath, known for her avant-garde creations, used products from her own beauty line to achieve the look. The base was the Skin Fetish foundation, providing a flawless, luminous canvas. Over that, she applied a vivid red body paint, which covered every inch of Doja Cat's visible skin, from her face and neck to her arms and legs. To add texture and dimension, McGrath dusted the paint with shimmering pigments, creating a subtle, fiery glow. The final, most painstaking step: applying 30,000 Swarovski crystals by hand. These crystals were placed meticulously across the singer's face, scalp, chest, and arms, turning her into a walking, breathing work of art. The entire process took nearly five hours, a testament to the patience and skill required.

McGrath also used her LiquiLUST lipstick in the shade 'Evon 4' to complete the look, ensuring the lips matched the intense red. The makeup was designed to be durable, lasting through the show and photo calls without smudging. The result was a seamless blend of paint and crystals that respected the theme of hellfire and damnation.

The Inspiration: Dante's Inferno and Haute Couture

Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli's artistic director, has consistently drawn inspiration from surrealism and literature. For this collection, he turned to Dante's 14th-century epic poem, 'Inferno,' which describes a journey through the nine circles of hell. The show featured elaborate gowns and accessories that evoked flames, demons, and tortured souls. Doja Cat's makeup fit perfectly: the red paint and crystals suggested both molten lava and the glittering eyes of a devil. Roseberry later praised the look, calling it 'a true collaboration between fashion and art.'

Schiaparelli has a long history of pushing boundaries, from Elsa Schiaparelli's collaborations with Salvador Dalí to modern reinterpretations. This show continued that legacy, with models walking a darkened runway lit by flickering projections of fire. Doja Cat, seated in the front row, became part of the spectacle.

Doja Cat's Beauty Evolution

Doja Cat (born Amala Ratna Zandile Dlamini) has never shied away from daring beauty choices. Her appearance at Schiaparelli was not her first time wearing body paint at a fashion show. On October 5, 2022, she attended the Awake show in Paris covered in gold paint. That look, created by makeup artist Laurel Charleston, also involved full-body coverage, with gold paint applied from head to toe, complemented by a gold manicure. The effect was statuesque and regal, earning widespread attention on social media.

These two looks demonstrate Doja Cat's willingness to become a canvas for artistic expression. She often uses her appearances to comment on beauty standards and the power of transformation. In interviews, she has said that she views makeup as a form of armor and self-expression, allowing her to inhabit different personas. Her music, which blends pop, rap, and R&B, similarly defies genre boundaries, making her a perfect muse for avant-garde designers.

Pat McGrath: The Queen of Beauty

Pat McGrath is widely regarded as one of the most influential makeup artists in the world. Her eponymous brand, Pat McGrath Labs, is known for high-pigment products and innovative textures. For the Schiaparelli show, she not only created the look but also oversaw a team of assistants who helped apply the crystals. McGrath often works with celebrities and designers during fashion weeks, and her looks frequently go viral. The Doja Cat look was no exception: it was documented in a behind-the-scenes video shared on McGrath's Instagram, racking up millions of views.

McGrath's approach involves understanding the designer's vision and the celebrity's personality. She said in an interview that she wanted to make Doja Cat look 'like a precious jewel that had been forged in fire.' The use of Swarovski crystals was intentional—they catch light and create movement, making the wearer seem almost otherworldly.

The Role of Swarovski Crystals in High Fashion

Swarovski crystals have long been a staple in luxury fashion and red-carpet looks. The Austrian company produces precision-cut crystals that mimic diamonds. For Doja Cat's look, 30,000 crystals were used—an enormous number that reflects the scale of haute couture. Each crystal was glued individually onto the skin using a medical-grade adhesive safe for all skin types. The application took several hours, with the singer remaining still for long periods. The effect was mesmerizing: under the runway lights, the crystals sparkled like thousands of tiny flames.

This is not the first time Pat McGrath has used crystals on the body. In previous shows, she has applied them to models' faces and hands. But the Doja Cat look is notable for the sheer quantity and the fact that the crystals covered the scalp as well. To achieve that, McGrath had to carefully work around the singer's hair, ensuring no strands were caught in the glue.

Beauty Products Behind the Look

Beyond the foundation and lipstick, McGrath used several other products from her line. The body paint was a custom mix of the Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Foundation in a red shade and the Mothership Eyeshadow Palette's red pigments. To keep the makeup in place, she used the Skin Fetish: Setting Spray, which created a long-wearing, water-resistant finish. The crystals themselves were applied with a fine-tipped tweezers and a special clear adhesive. McGrath also applied a layer of loose powder between the paint and the crystals to prevent smudging.

Doja Cat later revealed in an Instagram story that it took three people to remove the makeup after the show. The removal process involved soaking in oil-based cleansers to break down the adhesive. She described the experience as 'intense but worth it.'

The Impact on Fashion and Social Media

Within hours of the show, images of Doja Cat's crystal face and body spread across Twitter, Instagram, and TikTok. The look was discussed on morning shows and fashion blogs. Some praised it as a masterpiece of body painting, while others found it too extreme. But for Schiaparelli, the buzz was exactly what the brand needed. The show drew attention away from other Fashion Week events and solidified Schiaparelli's reputation as the house of surrealism.

Doja Cat's willingness to participate in such a demanding beauty routine also speaks to her dedication as a fashion collaborator. She has worked with brands like Versace and Marc Jacobs, but her partnership with Schiaparelli stands out for its artistic ambition. The singer is known for her humor and unpredictability, which makes her an ideal candidate for such avant-garde looks.

Comparing the Red and Gold Looks

Both the red crystal look and the earlier gold paint look share a commitment to uniformity: each covered the entire body in a single color and texture. However, the red look added the dimension of crystals, making it more complex and fragile. The gold look, by contrast, was simpler in execution: just paint and manicure, with no embellishments. But both achieved the same effect: turning Doja Cat into a living sculpture. The gold look, done for the Awake show by Laurel Charleston, also received praise, but the red crystal look has been more enduring in popular memory, likely due to the shock value of the crystals and the connection to Dante's Inferno.

Doja Cat's choice of shows is also revealing. Awake is a French label known for futuristic, avant-garde streetwear, while Schiaparelli is a historic haute couture house. By attending both, Doja Cat positions herself as a fashion chameleon, comfortable in both experimental streetwear and high-end couture. Her fans appreciate this versatility, often tagging her as a 'fashion icon' on social media.

The Future of Body Paint in Fashion

Doja Cat's looks may signal a growing trend toward extreme body paint on red carpets. In recent years, celebrities like Lil Nas X, Billy Porter, and Lady Gaga have worn sheer outfits with strategic paint. But full-body coverage is still rare. The labor involved—both for the artist and the subject—makes it a luxury reserved for major events. However, as fashion becomes increasingly visual and shareable, more stars may opt for such dramatic looks. Makeup artists like Pat McGrath and Laurel Charleston are likely to continue pushing boundaries, using paint and crystals to create unforgettable images.

Doja Cat herself has hinted that she plans more extreme beauty moments. In an interview with Vogue, she said, 'I love the idea of not looking like myself. It's freeing. When I'm covered in paint or crystals, I can be anyone.' That philosophy aligns with the spirit of haute couture, which is about fantasy and escape. As long as designers like Roseberry and artists like McGrath continue to collaborate, we can expect more moments that stop the world and make us rethink what beauty can be.

Technical Details of the Application

To achieve the seamless coverage, McGrath used an airbrush for the base layers, ensuring even distribution of the red paint. The airbrush technique also minimized the time spent on painting, leaving more hours for the crystal application. Each crystal was a 2mm round Swarovski, chosen for its uniform size and brilliance. The team applied them in a pattern that followed the contours of Doja Cat's face and body, with denser coverage on the cheekbones and shoulders to catch light. The adhesive was a water-soluble silicone-based glue, allowing for easier removal. The entire look was locked in with a final spray of setting mist that also added a subtle sheen.

Doja Cat sat for the application in a makeup chair, with her body propped on pillows to access all areas. She ate through a straw and used a fan to stay cool under the bright lights. The singer later joked on Twitter that she 'didn't move for five hours' and that her neck hurt afterward. But the result, she said, was 'the coolest thing I've ever done.'

Reception and Criticism

While the look was widely praised, some critics argued it dehumanized Doja Cat, turning her into an object. Others questioned the ethical use of crystals, given the environmental impact of mining and manufacturing. Doja Cat responded to the criticism by saying that her artistic choices are personal and not meant to please everyone. In an age of social media, such polarizing reactions are common, but they also keep the conversation alive. The controversy may have actually increased interest in the look, making it one of the most discussed beauty moments of 2023.

Schiaparelli did not comment on the criticism, but the brand continued to post images of Doja Cat's makeup on its official channels. The show itself received rave reviews from fashion critics, who praised Roseberry's vision and the craftsmanship of the garments. Doja Cat's makeup was singled out as a highlight, adding to the narrative of the collection.

Conclusion

Doja Cat's red crystal makeup at Schiaparelli represents a pinnacle of collaboration between fashion, beauty, and celebrity. It required meticulous planning, technical skill, and a willingness to be vulnerable. Pat McGrath's artistry and Doja Cat's fearlessness resulted in an image that will be remembered for years. As fashion continues to blur the lines between wearability and art, such moments remind us that beauty can be transformative, provocative, and deeply personal.

Source: Journaldesfemmes News